Molletes

When you don't feel like cooking: make an EASY overstuffed Mexican sandwich!

If you’re new here, hi! I’m Sally, a reformed restaurant chef turned home cook and cookbook author who hopes these weekly dispatches help you cook approachable, healthy-ish recipes that feel special without fancy ingredients. You can find out more about this newsletter and me here. Heartfelt thanks and appreciation for reading and supporting my work. 💖

Happy first day of spring! Are you as excited as I am?

I’ve been thinking lately that with yet another chance to start the year over (hello equinox!) I should rename this newsletter Cooking for the Weather Dependent. Because, in case you haven’t noticed, not a lot goes on around here chez moi outside of the weather. The other activities are: trips to the grocery store and trips back from the grocery store. The most exciting thing I did this week was to buy a plastic bin for my refrigerator since it is mysteriously insufficient in its drawer capacity. Conquering my refrigerator is like finding the right purse. I can never quite get it right.

Back to the weather and what I feel or don’t feel like cooking.

Even though there’s a promise of spring on paper, it hasn’t arrived. We’re somewhere between soups and stews and salads and the grill. Also, I really don’t feel like cooking right now. But I can’t face another taco night.

Don’t get me wrong. I’m not knocking tacos. They have saved supper more times than I’d like to admit. We always have tortillas, cheese and other little tidbits (AKA leftovers) that can be warmed and stuffed inside a tortilla. They beat bowls of cereal when push comes to shove.

But then, there are molletes! Molletes are a Mexican “breakfast food”, but you can eat them any time of day you want. They’re comforting and filling and EASY; something like a cheese toast on steroids with a Mexican flair.

Though I don’t have first-hand experience, my research suggests that you might encounter molletes at street stalls or in cafeterias or cafes in Mexico. They’re made with rolls called bolillos, which have a crisp crust and soft interior similar in texture to a French baguette but they’re shorter and oval-shaped.

To make them, slather toasted bread with refried beans and top with cheese. Bake until hot and melty and top with and a pile of fresh pico de gallo. You can find the main ingredients—pico de gallo or salsa (diced tomatoes, onions, cilantro, jalapeños, lime juice, and salt) and canned refried beans—ready-made in most supermarkets, but both are easy to make yourself and promise a bit more flavor if you do.

Mash the beans in a skillet until creamy or puree them until coarse in a food processor. Oaxaca cheese has a similar texture to mozzarella, with the flavor of Monterey Jack. All three are interchangeable, but it’s worth seeking out Oaxaca cheese for a change; groceries that cater to Latino customers stock it. Eat these sandwiches straight from the oven while the cheese is hot and the bread is irresistibly crunchy. You can also cut them into smaller pieces for finger food. In either case you won’t be able to stop snacking.

Molletes
Serves 4 | Prep time: 20 minutes | Cook time:15 minutes

PICO DE GALLO
2 tablespoons finely chopped white onion
2 small jalapeno peppers or other small hot chile peppers, cored and finely chopped, or more to taste
3 tablespoons lime juice, or more to taste
1 pound (3 to 4) medium tomatoes, cored and chopped
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Salt, to taste

1. In a bowl, stir together the onion, jalapeños, and lime juice to blend them.

2. Stir in the tomatoes, cilantro, and a generous pinch of salt. Taste for seasoning and add more chopped chiles, lime juice, or salt, if you like.

MOLLETES
4 crusty rolls or 1 baguette, cut into 4 even pieces
2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 large white onion, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
2 cans (15 ounces each) black beans, with the liquid in the cans
1/4 cup water
8 ounces Oaxaca, mozzarella, or Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely grated

1. Set an oven rack 4 inches from the broiler element. Turn on the broiler. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

2. Slice each roll or baguette piece in half lengthwise. Pull off a little of the soft interior from the centers to make shallow wells. Lightly butter the halves and set them on the baking sheet, buttered side up. Broil for 3 to 4 minutes, watching them carefully, or until lightly toasted. Set aside.

3. Turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees.

4. In a skillet over medium heat, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for 8 minutes, or until it is deep golden and softened. Add the oregano and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.

5. Meanwhile, in a food processor, pulse the beans with the water and the liquid in the cans until they form a coarse puree. Stir the beans into the onions, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. The beans should be soft, creamy, and scoopable.

6. Fill each bread cavity with about 1/3 cup of the beans. Top with 1/4 cup cheese. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese starts to bubble and the beans are hot. Top each mollete with pico de gallo. Serve at once.

COOKING LESSONS
Improvise with these additions:
• Crumbled chorizo or shredded leftover chicken
• Ham or bacon
• Avocado slices or guacamole
• Spicy chipotle salsa, salsa verde or roasted salsa instead of pico de gallo
• Pinto beans instead of black beans
• Use any roll you like that has a crisp crust and soft interior

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XXOO
Sally

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