We wait a long time for summer here in New England and when it arrives, it is spectacular. Maybe it’s the longing for it that makes it so.
In this neck of the woods, summer isn’t summer without a lobster roll. It’s our go-to for every summer holiday and every summer birthday. On our summer checklist: Find a dock or a picnic table somewhere by the sea. We’ll happily fend off seagulls if it means a paper plate with a big fat hot dog roll overflowing with freshly cooked lobster. Proust can have his madeleines. I will take a lobster roll.
If you can’t get to your favorite lobster shack this year, then make them yourself. It’s summer, the livin’ is easy, so let someone else cook the lobster for you and buy it already prepared. (You can also buy the lobster meat here if you’re outside New England.) If you’re in the Boston area, I highly recommend Alive and Kicking Lobster, 269 Putnam Ave Cambridge MA 02139.
Because lobster is the star of the show and you shouldn’t mess with perfection, there are more don’ts than dos when making lobster rolls at home. You’ve seen those gussied up versions; don’t do it! Just say no to avocado, bacon, brioche rolls, tarragon, parsley and other herbs, and leave the lettuce for another day. Let your lobster shine with nothing but a restrained amount of mayonnaise, a little celery for crunch, some lemon juice to balance the sweet meat, salt and pepper.
And about that bun: no self-respecting lobster roll would be served on anything but a New England style hot dog bun that has been buttered and griddled (not grilled) until golden. Split-top buns stand upright, and their sides are convenient for buttering and browning. If you can’t find them, cut slivers from the outsides of standard buns.
When you purchase cooked lobster meat, ask for big pieces of tail and claws and cut them into chunks yourself. The claws will often have pieces of cartilage, so be sure to check and remove them. Take your rolls outside with a cold beer or a glass of chilled white wine. And for the best accompaniment: break open a bag of potato chips. Now that’s a classic summer feast!
The Best Lobster Roll Recipe
Serves 4
1 pound cooked lobster meat, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice, to taste
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1/4 cup mayonnaise
4 New England style split-top hot dog buns
2 tablespoons soft butter
Potato chips, for serving
1. In a bowl, toss the lobster meat with the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and celery. Add the mayonnaise and stir to combine. Taste and add more salt, pepper, or lemon juice, if you like.
2. Spread the outsides of the buns with the softened butter. Set a skillet or cast-iron pan over medium heat. Toast the buns for about 30 seconds on a side, or until golden brown.
3. Fill each bun with 1/4 of the lobster meat. Serve with potato chips.
Have a rest this weekend, friends. Celebrate the beginning of summer and if you don’t get to the lobster rolls this weekend, save the recipe. Don’t miss out! The summer flies by.
Until next time…
XXOO
Sally
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Yummmmmmm